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After a while, the villages in their shadows grew used to their silent presence. To enjoy them, even. You can see them from miles off. But the newly launched Shale Trail , makes it easier to plot a route to explore them.
The mile walking and cycling trail between West Calder and Winchburgh takes in the sites and communities connected to the shale heritage. My aunt and uncle live in West Lothian, not far from the Five Sisters and even closer to their larger cousin at Greendykes.
Last time we went to visit my relatives, my partner and I took a detour to climb the sleeping giant. The light was flat and silver, the sky grey and cottoned over with cloud. We parked in a semi-derelict industrial estate, between rust-streaked Nissen huts and faded signposts, and wandered out into a landscape of almost unbelievable strangeness, like the first colonists on a new planet.
Water lilies poked their noses through the surface, where tiny insects skated by. Whip-thin birches sprung with unlikely fervour from their gravel beds, silk-skinned and shining and bearing tiny buds of sweet new leaves. We pressed between the birches, along a narrow footpath, to emerge at the base of the bing proper, and found its vast red flanks rising ahead of us, contours and crannies picked out dramatically in vegetation, and striated with tracks.
We began to climb, but the going was difficult. The blaes had solidified into a dense conglomerate to form rock faces in places, in others scree. Elsewhere, the outermost layer was grassed over but crumpled, like laundry, where the skin had slipped down, and when we put our weight on it we post-holed as if through rotten snow.
Grit collected in our shoes. After a fashion, we reached the top � a wind-battered upland that offered panoramic views across clean-swept fields to Niddry Castle, a 16th-century tower, behind which yet another bing � a sheer cliff of spent blaes, ruddy-faced but streaked with green and grey � stood breathing down its neck.
And beyond, yet more, rising proud from the flats. The flora here was a strange mix; it was hard to get a fix on the sort of climate we found ourselves in.
Russet shoots of willowherb were coming up across the tops, as they might along any Urban Landscape Branxton roadside in the country. But other than that, the vegetation had a sparse, sub-Arctic feel: a close crop of soft-furred leaves and starred flowers and short, blond grass. But there was red clover too, with their sweet heads full of nectar just beginning to open, and spotted orchids. Buds and shoots were snaking up, out of the gravel.
The land basking, warming, ready to bloom. It was the end of April. Impossible not to think of TS Eliot:. Hares and badgers, red grouse, skylarks, ringlet butterflies and elephant hawkmoths, spotted ladybirds.
Overall, Harvie recorded more than plant species on the bings � more than can be found on Ben Nevis � including eight nationally rare species of moss and lichen, among them the exquisite brown shield moss, whose thin tendrils loft targes to the sky like an army in miniature. Over the space of a half-century, these once-bare wastelands had somehow, magically, shivered into life.
Home News September West Lothian 'min neighbourhood' to plug housing shortfall. West Lothian 'min neighbourhood' to plug housing shortfall Send to friend. That makes me want to vomit. To save the planet from imminent destruction we sould be demolishing as many buildings as possible and creating green space, not paving paradise and creating new micro-homes. Congrats to the land promoter here for bolting on a buzz-word from the very very new Programme for Government onto a scheme they've almost certainly been planning for ages now.
Because nobody had a car. Read next: Timber topped learning hall to crown Aberdeen King's Quarter.
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