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Tune up your mower. Change the oil, air filter and spark plug. If dried grass has hardened, loosen with a hand trowel or putty knife. A dull blade makes mowing more work. Sharpen that blade, and replace it if it has large nicks or gouges. Now fill your mower with gas or charge the battery, because, well, power. If you prefer a hands-off approach, take your mower to the shop, though you will want to do it in late fall or winter to avoid spring crowds.
Note, too, that a cold mower can be hard to start in early spring. Warm it up by placing it in the sun for an hour or two prior to starting. Clean up. Walk around and pick up twigs, branches, and any trash that winter or the kids tossed onto your lawn.
Then, rake out dead grass and throw it onto your compost pile�along with any other green scraps�unless it contains weeds. Repair bare spots. Look for bald spots. In your lawn, pal. Water newly seeded areas every day for at least a week, or until the grass reaches mow-able height. Mow around the bare patches until then. Once the new grass is 2 inches high, mow over them. Prevent weeds in the North. Follow label directions, and only use this product if no spring seeding projects are planned.
Kill weeds in the South. It kills dollarweed and clover, plus many other weeds commonly found in the South. In addition to feeding your lawn and killing stubborn weeds, it prevents and kills fire ants for up to 6 months.
With both products, be sure to read and follow the directions on the label. Feed the grass. No crabgrass? Lucky you. This helps Northern lawns have enough nourishment to plant roots for strong growth. No weeds in your warm-season grass? With all lawn fertilizers, follow label directions carefully for best results, and don't apply additional fertilizer if you've recently applied a weed-and-feed product like one of those mentioned above.
Mow high. Tall grass sinks deeper roots which can seek out moisture and crowds out weeds. There are a few exceptions: Bermuda grass and creeping bentgrass like to keep a low profile, while Zoysia grass and Centipede grass enjoy a happy medium. No matter what, never remove more than one-third of the total grass blade length at a time.
Edge beds. The soft soil in early spring makes edging beds a cinch. Do not use a power rake with a 1-inch blade spacing, as severe turf injury may result. Use a lawn mower with a bag attached or hand rake to collect and properly dispose of the turf material pulled up. Aerification: Core aeration is the process of punching small holes in the turf and into the soil to alleviate compaction, thus allowing air to get to the root system.
This will help to correct problems associated with poor infiltration and drainage. Once the threat for frost has passed, lawn aerification may be combined with dethatching to alleviate any soil compaction problems. However, if a pre-emergent herbicide was applied late February to mid-March, postpone any cultivation practices that will disturb the soil until just before the next pre-emergent herbicide application date.
Pre-emergent herbicides create a barrier that keeps weed seeds from germinating. Disturbing the soil after an application will allow weeds to emerge through this barrier. Weed Control: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, sandspurs, and other summer annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the year. A second application is needed approximately 8 to 10 weeks after the initial application to give season long control of annual grassy and broadleaf weeds.
Apply a post-emergent herbicide as needed to control existing winter grassy and broadleaf weeds. In general, do not apply post-emergent herbicides during the spring green up of the turf.
If a weed problem begins and the grass has begun to green with warmer temperatures, wait until the grass has fully greened before applying a post-emergent herbicide. In the meantime, mow and bag the weeds. Bermudagrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, not only during spring green up, but during hot summer temperatures.
Follow label directions for use of any herbicide and use with caution during these times. Insect Control: Cold winter temperatures will usually keep insect problems in bermudagrass at bay. As temperatures start to warm in late spring, monitor for mole cricket activity. If mole cricket activity is observed, apply a lawn insecticide if damage is excessive.
If the damage is minimal, wait before applying an insecticide. This is not the best time to apply an insecticide for insect control because of cool soil temperatures and reduced insect activity. However, an early warm-up can lead to significant mole cricket activity. Heavy populations can be reduced through appropriately timed insecticide treatments during this period. If grubs the white larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles have been a problem in previous years, monitor the grubs by cutting a square foot piece of sod on three sides and peel it back.
If more than six grubs are found under the sod piece, apply a lawn insecticide labelled for grub control according to label directions. Fertilization: Fertilization of bermudagrass should be based on soil test results, and this is a good time to test soil. However, fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be applied during this period unless the lawn is located along the coast and no frost is predicted.
If new turfgrass growth is encouraged by fertilization during the early spring, and this is followed by a late frost, the result can be significant damage to the lawn. Irrigation: During dormancy, water the lawn to prevent excessive dehydration. Winter desiccation can be a problem during dry winters. Watering to prevent drought stress can help eliminate turf loss during winter.
Most areas of South Carolina receive enough rainfall during the winter to avoid winter desiccation of lawns. However, this is not always the case. Monitor the winter rainfall on a regular basis and apply water to the turf if no measurable rain occurs over a 3 to 4 week period.
The added moisture in the soil will help keep the growing points of the turf warmer, preventing crown death. To manage a lawn, it is important to know the soil texture in the top foot of soil. Sandy soils do not hold moisture well since they drain freely and dry out faster. Clay soils, however, will hold moisture for a longer period. Do not allow the lawn to stay excessively wet if the lawn has a clay soil. If the soil stays saturated all winter, this can cause many other problems. A soil probe can be used to monitor the soil moisture.
Mowing: The ideal mowing height for bermudagrass is from 1 to 2 inches depending on the specific site and management regime and is best determined by the conditions in the lawn.
This is the measured distance from the mower blade to a hard surface and can easily be determined by using a small ruler. Mowing heights below 1 inch will require a reel type mower to achieve satisfactory results.
Over the next several mowings, gradually reduce the mowing height in as small an increment as possible. Monitor the lawn after each mowing. Once a height where the grass does not look good anymore, it looks too thin or scalped, raise the mowing height back to the previous setting. However, cultivars of bermudagrass that are adapted to acceptable growth in partial shade may be best cut at a 2-inch height. During periods of environmental stress due to high temperatures or a lack of rainfall, raise the mowing height until the stress is eliminated.
Always mow with a sharp mower blade using a mulching type mower, which leaves the clippings to decompose on the turf. The mower blade needs to be sharpened on a regular basis � usually about once a month or at least before the growing season starts. If the bag is picking up soil, especially sand, when the lawn is mowed, then the blade may need to be sharpened more often than once a month.
Fertilization: Always fertilize and add lime or sulfur based on a soil test. Bermudagrass will grow best at a pH of 6 to 6. If a soil test shows a higher pH, sulfur can be applied to lower it. Apply 5 lbs of pelletized sulfur per square feet of turf. In 3 months, recheck the soil pH to see what change was made. It may take several years for a large pH change to occur.
Soils in the Upstate are typically acidic and usually do not need sulfur applications, but they likely may benefit from lime applications. Bermudagrass lawns should receive 2 to 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per growing season per square feet of turf. The higher rate may be used on bermudagrass lawn grown on sandy soils, and the lower rate for lawns grown on clay soils. An application of a soluble iron product will enhance the green color without creating excessive growth.
The rate will depend on soil type. A soil test will help determine if a fertilizer containing phosphorus, the middle number in the fertilizer analysis, is sufficient for the lawn. See the section on fertilizer calculations below to determine how much granular fertilizer product should be applied. The need for phosphorus is determined by the soil test. It is important for the soil to have sufficient potassium, especially late in the growing season as the grass enters dormancy.
Potassium is important for disease resistance and cold weather hardiness. A long-term approach is needed to correct either cause, but iron can be added to quickly enhance turf color between the spring and summer fertilizer applications.
Note: A yellow appearance may also arise in early spring. This could indicate an iron or manganese deficiency due to soil temperatures lagging behind air temperatures, high pH soils, or high phosphorous levels.
Spraying with iron ferrous sulfate at 2 ounces in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1, square feet or applying a chelated iron product will help to enhance turf color. Fertilizing with a micronutrient fertilizer, such as manganese sulfate, can help alleviate manganese deficiencies.
However, as the soil temperatures start to climb, the yellowing should slowly go away. Lime or sulfur may also be added if a soil test indicates a need. Be aware, it could take several months for lime and sulfur applications to begin to affect the soil pH. To determine amount of product required to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1, square feet, divide by the first number on the fertilizer bag. This will give the number of pounds of fertilizer product to apply to square feet of turf.
Irrigation: Water to prevent drought stress. Monitor the lawn on a regular basis to assess the need for an irrigation. Wait to irrigate again when the lawn shows moisture stress. There are several ways to determine when the lawn needs watering. One way is to monitor the lawn daily. When the turf begins to dry, it will appear to have a bluish color. Another method is to walk across the lawn late in the evening. If the grass blades in the footprints rebound, there is plenty of moisture in the turf.
If the grass in the footprints do not rebound, then water the next morning. The irrigation interval will vary from site to site depending on the environmental conditions at that site and soil type. Localized dry spots or hot spots can be watered by hand as needed. Insect Control: There are various insect pests that may attack bermudagrass during the summer months. Mole crickets, grubs, ground pearls, bermudagrass mites, bermudagrass scales, as well as nematodes can cause considerable damage. Each pest problem will have its own management strategy and is usually handled with cultural and chemical controls.
However, there can be exceptions. Mole crickets and grub eggs will usually hatch mid-summer.
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