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This post contains affiliate links. See policies page. Do that first. The first thing I did was dig out where I wanted to add the curb. I just kind of dug out the general shape I wanted my curb to take in about the location I wanted it to be.
I stapled the plywood to the stakes and drove the stakes into the ground. I just drove the stakes, then stapled the plywood onto them to make the shape. Also, I tried to keep the two sides of the form fairly level so the curb would be flat across the top and not tilted. A bucket. A couple bags of concrete �I think I used bags for this project. Some water. I mixed small batches at a time to pour because I only had a bucket. Id suggest using a wheelbarrow if you have one to make this a little easier.
Once I had the concrete mixed to about the consistency of cake batter in the bucket, I used the shovel to shovel it into the form. I worked my way around the form and once I poured a few feet worth, I took a wet trowel and tried to smooth everything out. So I tapped and smoothed it out the best I could and tried to get it nice and flat. Once I had that section smooth, I mixed and poured another few feet then smoothed it out again. I worked my way all the way around the form.
It was hot, dusty, and exhausting. You can see the indentions in the photo above. Concrete tends to crack over time. Concrete landscape borders are typically designed to assist in maintaining a well-manicured appearance of your landscaping. In time, though, these concrete borders can become cracked from water penetration and then freeze into ice that expands and enlarges the cracks. To avoid this, you will need to repair the cracks when they first appear.
This will sometimes require the use of specialized materials, tools, and techniques such as those below. Examine the surfaces of your concrete border to identify cracks that you will need to repair.
If some of these cracks are larger and have small concrete pieces that have broken away, or are about to break away from the border, you will need to remove these pieces. Allowing them to remain in the cracks will interfere with the adhering qualities of your fillers. To remove them, you may need to use a wire brush or hammer and cold chisel. To prepare narrower cracks, widen them to receive your filler using a grinder with an abrasive masonry wheel. Be sure to clean out all the cracks with a shop vacuum or a garden hose with a nozzle.
Also, be sure the cracks are moistened before applying grout or filler. In using a grout to fill narrow cracks, you will need to be sure the grout container tip hole is no larger than the width of the crack you'll be filling.
If you're using a new tube of grout, cut the tip small enough that the hole it creates is smaller than the crack you'll be filling. In using an existing grout tube, be sure the grout still has a workable consistency and that the tip is small enough. Apply the grout into the crack. This process prepares the crack so that the grout can resist being forced out of the crack when the crack contracts from temperature changes.
To accomplish this, you'll need to widen the crack more beneath the crack surface than at its surface. You can do this by chipping away the inner crack that is below the top surface with a chisel and hammer. Before applying the next layer, be sure the previous layer is set and hardened. When all cracks are filled, texture the surface around the crack to match the surface of the area around it.
We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site, and use it for non-commercial use subject to our terms of use. View our Privacy Policy here. Toggle navigation subscribe. Written by Doityourself Staff. What You'll Need. Concrete bonding adhesive. Latex primer or additive. Pourable grout. Wire brush. Mixing container.
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