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This article has been viewed , times. Installing a synthetic grass lawn and making it look good just requires following a few simple steps. Following these steps will ensure a clean, professional looking installation. All it takes is a little hard work and attention to detail. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account.
Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Remove the existing grass or weeds, as the case may be. You can use a sod cutter for this task. A sod cutter can be rented from your local tool rental company or home good store. The advantages of a sod cutter are: they cut evenly across the lawn, they are much less destructive to existing water lines and irrigation and if you have grass you can roll it up and dispose of it which saves time.
Excavate to an average depth of at least two inches. While you can get away with less, you won't get as good drainage which can be especially important if your turf will be coming in contact with pets and their associated byproducts ie. Install a bendaboard border along the perimeter of your installation, if desired. Alternatively you can use 60d six inch nails every 4 inches If you elect to use Nc Landscaping Contractor License Workbook a bendaboard border, be sure to use a composite board material that will not corrode.
Wood won't suffice. Dig a slight trench along the border approximately six inches deep using a "mud gun" layman's term for a small jackhammer with a shovel bit - can be rented or a trenching pick and trenching shovel. Stake the board to the ground so it is secure and backfill with gravel or the dirt that was excavated and compact Landscaping Contractor License Florida Research thoroughly. Cap any existing irrigation heads. Alternatively you can reconfigure them to "spritz" the turf and keep the irrigation system.
This works well for really hot days to cool the turf or for pet owners who want to wash the turf down automatically. Add gravel. Large gravel - half inch or above - will make getting a nice grade very difficult. Add gravel so it comes about a quarter inch above the bendaboard and is higher in the middle. If your area is a 20' by 20' square, it's best to make the middle of your install one inch higher than the edges. This will create a nice "mound" look.
Flat synthetic turf installs have a tendency to look fake! One cubic yard of gravel will cover square feet one inch thick. Also, one cubic yard will weigh about lbs. Rake and compact. Rake using a 36" aluminum grading rake. This rake has teeth on one side and the back has a flat grading blade. Rake out the low spots as best as possible. Using a vibrating plate compactor another rented item , wet the area moderately with a hose and go over the area from outside in one time.
Wet the area down again. It should be pretty wet at this point, not flooded but as though it had rained heavily for about ten minutes. Go over it again with the plate compactor. At the end you will have little lines from the edge of the plate compactor. Work these out with the flat edge of your rake. You will also have gravel shifting upwards at your edges where the plate compactor pushed the gravel up by the bendaboard. Remove this or your install will look fake.
You may need a fine broom to remove the excess from the lines and excess material on the edges. Add a weed mat. Depending on your conditions, this may or may not be a benefit. If you had a lot of paspalum, zoysia or bermuda grass it would be a good idea unless it was thoroughly killed.
Add the synthetic turf. There are a few things to know here. The turf usually comes in 15 foot 4. It is much harder to seam lengths together. If your area is 20 feet 6. Unfortunately the remaining ten foot wide by twenty feet long section would be an unused remnant. Unroll the first section, laying it close to the edge and leaving a few inches to spare in front and back lengthwise.
For example if your area is 20x20 cut a strip about 20'6" long. Lay out your next section of 5' wide and 20' long. Make preliminary cuts. Before cutting too close around the edges, cut out the excess factory material from the sides. We cut the third stitch in. Once you have cut stitches out you now know you have two straight edges that can be put together for your seam. Make your seam. You have a few options. You can glue your seam or you can use staples or nails.
This gives a seam that is hard to detect and allows you to not have nails in the field. This is important for playgrounds as well as the stretching process.
To do the seam get the two turf pieces next to each other, emulating the distance between them which duplicates the stitching in the turf. If you are too close you will have a "mohawk" effect in which too many blades are competing for space. If you are too far it will look empty. Too far is better than too close though. Once you get your spacing right and the S-330 Landscaping Contractor License Guide seam looks good, put some nails about 18" away from your seam. Just a few nails partially in every few feet will do.
The nails are just to keep your turf from shifting at all. Now pull back each piece of turf leaving a couple feet of gravel exposed.
Lay out your seaming tape the tape should be 12" wide. Spread your glue over your seaming tape and trowel out so it covers the tape evenly but thinly. Let sit for about ten minutes to get tacky. Put the turf back down over the seaming tape, being careful not to let the blades get stuck in the glue. Put bags of sand or similar over the entire seam to make sure it doesn't shift. Remove the bags or sand or similar, once your seam is cured which may be the next day.
You are now ready to stretch the turf. For most installs, you can stretch lengthwise only and don't need to stretch width wise.
If the area is under sqft, you can get away with stretching from one side only. To do this, pull the turf so it lines up well with the bottom or top of your install then fasten the turf to your bendaboard or nail the turf down using your six inch nails. Using your feet, kick out the turf from the nailed side, trying to get out any wrinkles. Put six inch nails halfway in every 3 feet 0.
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