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Author: admin, 27.06.2020. Category: Landscaping Ponds

������ �������� �� ����������� ��������� Garden Plants | ��� ��� ����������� | ������ ���� Apr 02, �� May 14, - Explore Judy Lassiter's board "Small patio ideas", followed by people on Pinterest. See more ideas about patio, backyard, backyard landscaping pins. Pot plants, small garden landscapes and mass planting; honey eating birds are highly attracted to this plant Only available in New Zealand Blush� Nandina domestica 'AKA' PBR Wet and dry landscapes. Water features, ponds, wetlands, bog gardens, raingardens, pots and dry gardens if irrigated Position Full sun to 70% shade. my plants, potted and garden ones, absolutely thrive on the Bokashi �tea� I put about 4 tbs in a 5l can of water.. gut feel. come and see my beautiful garden in Cape Town. The buckets, when the juice stops, are later buried/mixed into the compost, a wonderful mix.
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The argument above applies only to photosynthesis. It will not return to the atmospheric reservoir unless the ecosystem shrinks. The problem is that all chemical reactions require and energy source. In living organisms the energy comes from converting larger carbon molecules to CO2. So as carbon levels increase over time, through organism growth the process is also producing some CO2.

It is true that the net amount of carbon in soil increases. Bokashi emits no methane, nor much of anything else. See post above. It is anaerobic fermentation, so perhaps you confuse it with anaerobic decomposition, which emits vast quantities of methane. Another interesting read, thank you Robert. My perspective on the issue is a little different but I should declare it is from the other side of the world in Western Australia. I have long had an issue with making compost.

Even though the process is well understood, there still seems to be an air of mystique about it that allows non scientific gardeners to give the process and its end product magical powers. This also feeds the demand for a massive range of sometimes really weird books on the subject. Stand back a moment though and look at the process. It involves gathering material from all around the garden and taking it to a central point where it may need further chopping up before it goes into a often very expensive compost bin.

Then there is the problem of what to do with the compost. Digging it in is fine but not easy in an established garden. The alternative is simple.

Spread the raw material out as a mulch which will protect the soil, help with moisture conservation and allow nearly all the nutrients to be utilised. To get the message across I refer to mulching as horizontal composting. Less work, greater returns and a lot cheaper. I produce half a bin of material each year for composting.

Almost everything stays right in the garden, in what I call the cut and drop method. In spring any perennial laying on the ground stays there, soon to be hidden by new growth. Here is a hot link to your article Mulch ado about Something.

Lucky them. Bokashi takes not only vegetable matter, but also meat, fish, dairy and cooked scraps without hot composting. Hence the trench method. Pathogens can be killed in cold composting as well as in hot composting. It just takes more time. Basically, some combination of time and temperature kills pathogens; colder temperature, more time.

As far as CO2 release, pretty much any organic material decomposes to release its carbon as CO2. Bokashi and cold composting might do it more slowly, but they still do it, eventually. And finally, as far as N loss from a compost pile: That can be minimized by adding sufficient carbon material such as straw or wood chips , and keeping a pile covered.

Good to hear from you Lee. According to the data in the book, most pathogens are dead in 6 months, even in cold soil. Some worms may persist for several years. It is true all organic material will eventually be converted to CO2. But if the material is used as a food source the smaller organic molecules can be used to build larger ones, preventing the immediate production of CO2. By building up the organic level and number of living organisms in soil over time you extend the time before CO2 is produced.

It would be interesting to see real data on these processes. The atmospheric reservoir � our big problem � takes carbon from the biological reservoir in one of three ways: combustion e. Building up the biological reservoir in soil does not extend the time before CO2 is produced, but it does change the balance.

More carbon in living things means less in the atmosphere. It is thought that the release of carbon from degraded soil 4ft Garden Plants since mechanised agriculture began may explain about half of the human contribution to climate change see any IPCC overview.

So, regenerating the biological reservoir in soil is one of the very best things a person can do. Nothing else moves the entire carbon content of food waste into that reservoir, virtually loss free. I attended a composting lecture by Lee Reich. Bokashi was not mentioned, unfortunately. Not terrifically complete or helpful.

Sorry, Lee! In fairness, neither bokashi nor comfrey are mainstream composting systems in North America, nor have they shown to be better than regular composting, except in special cases. Hi Robert, another thought provoking blog. If Bokashi fermentation is put onto the compost heap or onto top soil to decompose, I cannot see the advantage. All we are doing is adding an unnecessary process.

Why not just compost straight away? You say that the fermentation still has all the nutrients locked up in it � well yes because it has not even started to decompose. The only way that crops will be able to access the nutrients is by the mineralisation of organic matter through decomposition. I really cannot see what advantage Bokashi fermentation brings to the process of mineralisation.

Whether the organic matter has gone through the process of Bokashi or just composting, when it decomposes the same elements will be lost or retained.

You seem to end up at the same place whatever. Unless I have missed something whereby when there is fermentation somehow nutrients are retained then there is no advantage. Your summary is right on the mark. However, if bokashi results in a product that decomposes without releasing CO2 and nitrogen, then it would have a valid advantage. The reality is that for most home composting, much of the nitrogen is lost either to the air or to the soil under the pile.

Even other nutrients are lost because the compost piles are not closed system. Bokashi would keep more of it in the soil around plants. At this point the only real advantage we can be sure of is one of convenience. Decomposition implies the breakdown of organic matter, which is largely cellulose, a carbohydrate.

Because carbohydrate is used as an energy source by the bacteria and fungi that are feeding on it, CO2 is produced.

Less CO2 is produced in oxygen-starved bokashi, and consequently less decomposition is occurring. Why go to the trouble if the end result � incorporating kitchen scraps into garden soil � is the same?

The only advantage I would see is if the bokashi process makes the kitchen scraps unpalatable to pests like rats. Regarding nitrogen, proper C:N ratio will reduce production and loss of ammonia in an aerobic compost bin. And leaching of nitrates can be avoided by controlling exposure to rain.

It seems that to productively use bokashi means digging it into the soil. Which means having an area of temporarily unproductive soil. You are correct in your description in the first paragraph. I agree � there may not be any benefit to Bokashi, if composting is an option. Not everyone has a yard, and not everyone can compost. If the decomposition of ferment in the garden is a slower process, there are benefits in carbon and nitrogen preservation as I suggested in the article.

In my next article on the subject I will present a way of adding it to soil quickly which might make it more appealing to you. Interesting post as allways. In Israel, it is by far concidered better to compost every kitchen waste instead of landfield it because of methane gas during anaerobic process. There are much bigger CO2 problems than compost, but most people are not aware that this is going on.

It is only a problem because we have too much of it � produced from non-natural sources. Good for plants, not so good for global warming. Surely when the ferment is put onto into soil it is exposed to oxygen and the microbes die because their habitat has been destroyed and then soil microbes start decomposing the matter as normal? I am not sure if they die, but some certainly would. For example EM contains yeast � how sensitive is that to air? Soil microbes would certainly take over and start the decomposition process.

Yeast are single celled members of the fungus kingdom, and like many bacteria species, they can be facultative anaerobes which means they can change their metabolism from aerobic to anaerobic or back again to adapt to environmental conditions.

That can be a very useful survival tactic in the microbial world. EM1 cultures contain Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a common yeast species that humans have be using for centuries New Garden Plants 2020 Questions for making wine, brewing and baking. When the ferment is put into soil it feeds the entire soil ecosystem, making it larger, richer and more diverse because it has more embedded energy. This is what ecosystems are fundamentally about. What happens to an individual population in an ecosystem is irrelevant as long as the overall energy balance increases.

The massive loss of energy as heat or in methane from traditional composting is a disaster. Bokashi is virtually loss-free. What happens to it once in the ground? Thanks for another great article.

Given the available information, I especially appreciate you highlighting what is known AND what is unknown. Good clarity! Small amounts of kitchen scraps will decompose with a cold process. Bokashi may speed things up � but is that a good thing? When we add organic matter to the garden, one of the big benefits is that it is a slow feed over many years.

It is hard to see why a faster process adds value. All of my garden waste is cut and dropped in place. My kitchen scraps are usually dropped behind a bush or tall perennials. I see no point in digging it in. Press here to subscribe. Garden Myths - Learn the truth about gardening.

Bokashi vs Composting By on Bokashi is a fermentation method used for processing kitchen scraps in the home with very little mess and no foul odors. What is Bokashi? If you like this post, please share This entry is filed under composting and tagged bokashi , bokashi vs composting. October 13, at am. Robert Pavlis says:. October 18, at am. Malcolm says:. December 12, at pm. Lewis Bivona says:. February 18, at am. C says:. July 8, at am.

July 17, at pm. Dave says:. April 6, at pm. Paula says:. June 27, at pm. Leslie says:. For example, in wine making, special starter yeast mixtures may be added to start the process.

The reason for doing this is that you want the right kind of microbes to grow quickly and out compete the ones that will create a lot of bad odors. There are also claims that the EM are good for the garden. That is not likely to be true. In the bokashi system it is important to keep oxygen out. The EM are microbes that grow best in anaerobic conditions ie no oxygen. If too much oxygen gets into the system, the EM die, and aerobic bacteria take over and fermentation is slowed or stopped.

When the EM are added to soil or the compost pile, both of which contain oxygen and are aerobic, they die. The EM are not going to grow effectively in soil or the compost pile. Except for the nutrients in their dead bodies they add no benefit to the soil or for plants.

Reference 2 below tested EM tea on field grown crops and found that they did not increase yield. Similar field studies have has the same results. As fermentation progresses, excess liquid drains into the bottom of the pail, and you need to remove it. It is claimed that this tea is a great source of nutrients for your plants. How nutritious is it? If it contained a lot of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, you would expect that the companies selling these systems would brag about the high levels of nutrients in the tea.

Not so. I could not find a single site that provided these numbers. Are they embarrassed about how low they are? Some sites say that you can use it straight or dilute it That is a huge red flag. A fertilizer that can be effective at full strength and at a dilution rate does not make sense. It is not exactly the same thing, but there are several reports analyzing pickle juice.

It contains 0. After diluting it by it is essentially water. The nutrients come from two sources. The liquid in things like fruit contain some soluble nutrients.

These might be extracted with the tea and drain to the bottom of the pail. On the other hand the Effective Microbes need nutrients to grow, so any nutrients present will also be consumed by the EM before they drain to the bottom of the pail. In either case the amount of such nutrients in food scraps is quite low. The majority of nutrients in food scraps is contained in large molecules like protein, DNA, carbohydrates, fats, oils etc.

Since bokashi does not break down the food scraps these nutrients are still bound up in large molecules at the end of the bokashi process.

That is why an apple still looks like an apple at the end of the process. The nutrients will not get released until the future composting process is completed. It seems fairly obvious to me that the tea is going to have very low levels of nutrients.

Until I see some analytical data that contradicts this point of view I must conclude the tea is not much more nutritious to plants than water. I am still not sold on Bokashi. The tea has no real value, and the fermented food scraps still need to be disposed of. If you are going to dispose of them in the garden, you might as well compost instead.

In recent years a new way of handling the Bokashi ferment, called Soil Factory, has become popular. It is a way to process the scraps in the home in a few weeks. You can even use my improved Instant Soil Factory method and eliminate the two week period.

Using these methods Bokashi makes sense for apartment owners and others with no garden. Both bokashi composting and traditional composting provide your garden and plants with the same benefits. Bokashi just seems to be an additional extra step that is not necessary. I would not use it. I think this article and criticism Is based on false premises, and I would like to challenge a few of your statements in this article and comments.

You go on to state that proponents of this method communicate that the composting goes on in the fermentation bucket. I have never read any material that keeps it a secret that the method is a two-step process where you first ferment, then compost in soil.

Can you provide a link to a legitimate source of bokashi information that fails to mention the soil factory step? I use a 5 gallon bucket with a lid to collect my compostable kitchen waste. At first, the odors eminating from the bucket would get unpleasantly strong. I started layering with high carbon materials, like shredded cardboard, and noticed an immediate improvement � but still some odors lingered. On a whim, I started adding a splash of acid whey from my Greek yogurt production onto the paper layers as I added them to the bucket.

This virtually eliminated the odor problem. Still some earthy smells, but little if any nastiness evident in the kitchen. I am also considering, as an experiment, feeding my worm bin with a portion of this pre-digested waste. I have difficulty imagining where humans would be today if we had always waited for pre-existing justification before trying anything new.

Thanks for reading. Aerobic composting releases carbon dioxide into the air; that Garden Plants 3d Model Free Google carbon is lost. I found no evidence to support or contradict this idea. It is quite possible that once in the ground it goes through a similar decomposition as in a compost pile and also releases CO2. The nitrogen would at least be lost to the soil. I think whether bokashi is useful as a means of composting depends on circumstances.

It becomes more problematic when you live in close proximity to other people. All this great scientific discussion�thanknyou all� but do we explain to grow 17 corn plants, each of them gave fruits in just one planter planted directly over bokashi compost? A better one! Thank you for this insightful article! Most parks do not have compost, including the one where I own my site.

This is my home base. When traveling with Bokashi compost, I can store my food scraps until I can bury them. I mostly just use it in my RV tanks, ha ha. EM had no effect. Which is not surprising � adding microbes to soil is unlikely to change the soil.

In some specific cases, it can have an effect on specific diseases � maybe? A quiet recent study made by SLU in Sweden tested the amount of carbon that are released from a hot compost in comparison to bokashi, from start to finish. The bokashi was better but it was really just slightly and it released a higher degree of other gases like methane.

Is it really a good practice? It definetly is, by LCA it was determined that because Bokashi is not composting but fermenting, it has less green house gas emissions that compost and it does not emit heat. In my opinion both systems are great and should be practiced, if the heat and emissions from a composting method can also be utilized, this would fit perfect to close the loop through circular economy.

The Bokashi tea used for hydroponics is also a way to close the loop, so as you can imagine there are infinite combinations of practices that can take us through a healthy transition towards sustainable living. It depends in each person and the level of commitment as well as liquidity. Dear Robert, I agree with the kitchen scraps method in an air tight container. I am no scientist like yourself. Gardening is my profession, hobby, and true love since I was a child. I have 23 years experience professionally and 35 through passion.

Your comment on different microbes acting aerobically and anaerobically some both is spot on in my opinion. The Bokashi method I have been using uses no kitchen scraps what so ever. I imagine in a garden your size an additional cost needs to be thought about when traditional or biomass compost additives work well enough alone. With my mix a white fungal material forms across the soil and throughout. These plants tend to thrive more in stressful environmental conditions. Certainly I am not debating your article.

My question is have you tried a similar method to what I do? Thank you for your time. My big question is about used tissues. Does the bokashi system actually render the germs in these tissues harmless so I could add them to my compost? This article was very imformative, but it best opened up a very good discussion on Bokashi vs traditional composting. Before I give my 2c, I want to thank everyone for participating in a debate without resorting dissing and namecalling, which most of these type of discussions bring.

I committed to go fully organic and to self sustain my fertilizer needs with my own compost. Well, in doing so, I was keeping kitchen scraps and just throwing them on the pile as the little can filled. Pulling the parts together and filling a cubic yard of the right things proportionally could produce compost effectively in 30 days.

This is where Bokashi came in. Bokashi composting seems to me to be the answer to my problem. So in other words, I see nothing but a win-win situation for supporting both. I look at it as complimentary cycle of the Bokashi composting method feeding the traditional composting as innoculator, where it will aid in the increase of the decomposition process. Do I still have questions about Bokashi?

Room for both! I tried sifting through comments on this to see if there is any believable experience validating this. But got lost in a sea of contentious debates unrelated to this.

Anything that reduces flies and rodents is a huge benefit to me. So�any comment on how attractive Bokashi is to wild rats and flies once put out in a compost bin? Not sure how you can tell when it is long enough. In my experience, rodents do like fermented foodscraps just like any other foods. They might still come round to check out places, but since any actual bits of food disappear relatively quickly, so does the appeal for rodents to come. I have no intention of doing bokashi but hope you can help me with some doubts because I teach environmental education in Chile and I like to deliver information with a scientific basis:.

I understand that, since Bokashi process is anaerobical, it produces methane, right? Is that posible? And if it is, is there any way to select just that kind of microorganisms for bokashi? What about the production of CO2 and methane on composting and vermicomposting techniques. Is it significative or negligible? This might help. Again, very useful information. But I still have the doubt about bokashi fermentation. Does it produce methane? I asked it to a bokashi seller obviously waiting a biased answer and he said that they select only micororganisms that doesnt produce methane.

Is it even possible?!? The bacteria that grow in acidic anaerobic conditions would not produce much methane. It is probably not zero. The problem is that at the end of bokashi process,the food is not yet decomposed. It now has to go through a normal decopostion process which will produce methane. Effective Micro-Organisms EM are facultative meaning they can work both aerobically and anaerobically. Microbes also very rarely die.

When the conditions do not suit a particular microbe they are suppressed but if conditions change they will repopulate. Putting Bokashi, and therefore microbes, that are facultative onto your soils you are having a positive impact on your soils with countless peer reviewed papers documenting exactly that.

Your understanding of how Bokashi breaks down in the soil is also wrong. As the microbes have been breaking down the organic matter in the bin the waste does not need to be turned into compost to be used in the soil. It is immediately available as a food source to life in the soil.

But since there are countless studies � please post a link to that shows soil microbe populations increase after adding microbes to the soil. It is my understanding that at the end of the Bokashi process the food scraps are still recognizable � clearly showing that there has not been much decomposition yet. I wish to buy the Bokashi bucket to compost food waste from the canteen. Can you please help me where can i get the bucket, please.

Birds, foxes, european badgers and dogs sure like it, and you need to make it impossible for them to get to it or they will go after it and the worms and such that feeds on it. I did a couple of test. I took fresh scraps freezed really in one part of my worm compost. The same amount and from the same type but instead of freezed fermented with bookashi. Another part I left freezed food stuff in earth and on fermented in earth. Second was the fermented in the wormcompost and last frech in earth..

I think the worm with freezed food did end up with mostly no food left bones and avocado peel and seed excluded twoo weeks before the bookshi in wormbin. Excluding the time for ferment. Had I put the food scrap in at the start of fermenting it would have been a month faster.

Bones from duck did stay even after a year. The differens that I could see was that bones that was fermented stayed white a lot longer than the freezed ones. They become brown faster. Some bones can maybe have been more brittle without the ferment than with.. Would have loved doing an experiment between hotcompost , wormbin and in earth and with both frech scraps and fermented to see the difference. Other odors are reduced though still exist.

There are no putrid odors from aerobic rotting processes. Nitrogen will be lost with the production of methane as part of the fermentation process. You are using a closed system, so no insects or rodents are able to enter. It can be done in a 5-gallon bucket. Technically it is not complete in 2 weeks as the step after fermentation is to bury it in the garden for further process.

Do I assuming you mean have here proof of this statement? If I am understanding you correctly, the proof is in the putting as the old saying goes. It is embarrassing watching you look for things to pick apart on this. Proof as in scientific studies. Doing something yourself in a bucket without proper controls is just anecdotal information and not proof of anything. It might not be scientific, but hay the sun comes up in the east and sets in the west.

Facts are facts. The b acteria are breaking down and fermenting the waste making it more available during compost. I never said Bokashi does not work. What I said is that it does not compost the material and that there seems to be little evidence that doing bokashi before composting adds any benefit. As responsible people we all need to be striving to reduce our footprint. A bokashi bin will remove the organic material from the landfill.

Bokashi bins should be in evry home! Agree with reducing the waste, but there is little evidence bokashi is a good option. It still needs to be composted at the end of the process.

We have only just started to compost and to grow fruit and vegetables. We are in Australia and plastic pollution is a big problem. All fruit and veg comes in plastic packaging unless you find a farmers market, then you need a plastic bin liner or bag because of food scrubs. Not all plastic can go in the recycling bin either.

So, we are trying to reduce our rubbish going into land fill. Food scrubs release a lot of greenhouse gases so we wanted to find a better solution. The Bokashi is great because we can throw almost all food scrubs in it. I have pretty much thrown anything in there, left over cake, cooked pasta, dairy, oil, anything.

When that is full I throw the contents of the first bin into the compost bin. We get really dark soil out of it. I did read that the liquid may be diluted and used as fertiliser. I guess Bokashi has been originated in Japan and many people do it over there with a lot of success. For now we are happy that we have reduced our waste. What I call soil is the substrate I grow my food in. And our supply of substrate, that I am happy to call soil, has more than doubled over the years as we have added fermented organic matter to our initial soil bagged, from the south and sand local.

Bokashi composting solved a big problem for us. We are on an acreage, where we have raccoons, rats, possums, loose dogs, coyotes, etc. And we have two dogs of our own. We cannot have food scraps lying around in an open compost bin or buried where the odor can be detected by such very sensitive noses. We also need a way to compost meat, dairy, and bones. In fact, I read that adding Bokashi waste to a regular compost bin or pile actually deters some critters because they do not care for the fermented material.

We add the Bokashi to our sealed tumblers. We have mostly clay, which needs a lot of amendment for any plant that needs well-drained soil. This multi-step composting process gives us a way to add fully broken-down organic material to our planting beds, and it is all produced from waste that would normally go to the city dump. Everything I read about Bokashi composting explained that it is a multi-step process involving, first, fermentation in the bucket, then composting via burying or adding to a regular compost collection.

It is a process for using waste that could not normally be composted through other means, and it works perfectly for that. I cannot comment on the tea that Bokashi makes. That was not the primary purpose of the Bokashi system for me. It is too bad that people will read your post and dismiss Bokashi as a fraud when it has so many benefits for so many people in circumstances different from yours. Porsche has en electric car called the Taycan Turbo.

Does it use exhaust gasses to power a turbine to pump more air into the combustion chamber? No, of course not. It it marketing wank. Anyway, when I got my kit, not the car all the documentation spoke about pre-composting and made clear that it is NOT actual composting. We started adding Bokashi because our soil was quite poor because this is a new house and the soil was basically sand.

Now stuff still grows there. It does attract worms and makes the soil look much better after quite some time and of course we can put in a lot more stuff then one could so on a compost heap. And if it actually helps enrich our dessert garden a bit, then fine. We find Bokashi processing useful for the same reason you stated.

It allows us to pre-treat meat, fat, and dairy so that it can then be added to our compost without attracting animals. This is a huge benefit, because these animal components in compost are very rich and diverse nutrient sources � obviously so based on the relative explosive plant growth and vitality compared to purely plant based compost. Years ago I studied microbiology and worked as a micro tech in clinical labs. The microorganisms , primarily lactobacilli that ferment vegetables to make lactose-ferments are the only necessary for Bokashi.

So imo Bokashi processing is no substitute for composting, but it is an easy way to add very rich animal nutrients to compost without drawing rats and other scavengers. My experience with bokashi is that it is good for pickling composting materials that would otherwise attract animals and it is incredibly helpful in growing sweet potatoes.

When I used EM1 on my garden it did generally nothing to the crops that grew above the soil. However, I have found it incredibly helpful in increasing health and yields of sweet potatoes and possibly for increasing yields of carrots or at least increasing the health of carrot plants.

My experience with sweet potato yields is not just from observation. One year I planted several kinds of sweet potato and put yam one on a few plants and not on the others. There was a dramatic difference in both the size of the leaves and Vines as well as the potatoes.

Another year, when I had some kind of blight destroy the rest of my vegetable garden, I was able to save my sweet potato plants by spraying them with diluted EM1. The blight subsided on the damaged sweet potatoes and all the new growth was healthy. I do not know why EM1 works with sweet potatoes, but my experiences in Arizona and northern California have led me to believe that it does. Most of the time I try things out to see if each claim is actually true.

One interesting topic I would like to find out is if black soldier flies have the same type of fermentation bacteria in their guts as what is found in EM1.

I currently have a very large black soldier fly colony tha I keep from year to year and I believe the way they are able to digest so many different things from utilizing some combination of fermentation bacteria. I use Bokashi as a soil amendment, along with biochar and traditional compost. I find the Bokashi a convient method of dealing with kitchen scraps and adds a huge amount of organic material to the beds that breaks down into organic material quicker than just burying the scraps.

Conventional year round composting in our area is twice as hard, as our rainfall is very low and our temps very high looking at 46 celsius this week , and watering the compost is a waste of valuable water. We are trying very hard to replicate the processes used to produce Tera Preta soils for growing our veggies etc. I appreciate the critical thinking in this article. After reading your blog post I continued my search for analysis of bokashi, specifically the liquid, and came across this.

Thought you would be interested in it. In many countries a form of large scale bokashi is used with manure being a main input � but the input depends very much on the material at hand.

As such, I am not sure if any of the conclusion apply to what home gardeners are doing? They applied bokashi to plants and their control was doing nothing. Bokashi produced better growth. This does not really prove very much because we know that adding excess nutrients to soil will produce plant growth. They should be comparing manure to bokashi made from the same manure. That would show if bokashi adds anything to the process. I have been Bokashi composting for over four years, I have not seen any noticable benefits to date.

I am now trying one spot and burying the Bokashi in the same spot and giving that spot four weeks to break down the Bokashi fermentation before adding another bucket. I am on my third round in this spot, I have noticed the soil getting darker in color and no visible signs of the Bokashi waste and an increase in worm population in this spot. In the spring of I will plant a rose bush in this spot and see what happens, this spot has not produced a rose bush in over ten years.

Robert, This is the first year I have grown anything, Lot to learn Never done any type of composting but want to start. I think you are not looking at this correctly.

Let us only look at meat and bones. In a compost pile or put directly on the ground you will have the following problems. So it is not about which works faster rather the fact that you can safely add meat bones etc. It is true that you can get rid of meat this way. It is the bokashi proponents that claim the process works faster � not me.

While I do appreciate a critical stance I have seen the most ludicrous claims made on behalf of bokashi , I think you miss the point with the benefit for people living in flats without access to a garden.

Bokashi allows me to make soil indoors, from start to finish, without foul odours. I first make the bokashi, then use leftover soil from plants etc and blend in big bags that I have around the house. And I anyway want the compost for my own use. Bokashi does not make soil. You are adding the ferment to soil, and thereby adding nutrients to soil, but you do not produce soil. I will be posting some more on this topic soon. If you take the kitchen scraps, and put them in a blender, then add the liquid to soil, you will have the same effect and you can skip the fermenting part.

Bokashi is not compost. It is a fermented organic matter that is free of pathogens and coliforms due to the acidic anaerobic process that out competes the bad bacteria. Once the Bokashi is ready to breakdown, it can be mixed with garden soil or added to a container with garden soil.

The fermented organic matter will break down in under a month outdoors and two months indoors. That result is a soil that is richer in organic matter, beneficial bacteria, fungi, moisture, gases and minerals.

All of which are the main components of soil, by the way. Yes Bokashi turns into soil. This is a fact that is proven by testing with a refractometer.

We have conducted numerous tests and the findings are conclusive. Saying that we had our Bokashi culture mix analysed and it came back with an NPK of 2. There are obvious benefits to using Bokashi, thereby avoiding synthetic nutrients. Re: That result is a soil that is richer in organic matter, beneficial bacteria, fungi, moisture, gases and minerals.

Living organisms are not part of soil � they live in soil. Increasing Brix is not really of much value to food crops. Show me evidence that it is of value to plants. These nutrients can only get into a mineralised form in two ways: artificially in man-made chemical fertilisers; naturally transformed from non-mineralised form by living organisms, mainly bacteria, archaea and fungi, some of which operate in the gut of larger organisms like worms.

Plants cannot grow in such a soil without artificial help. Your definition of soil may be physically satisfying to you, but it is not biologically satisfying to organic gardeners. It is not my definition of soil. It is the definition accepted by soil scientists. I am just the reporter of facts. Too expensive, and the stuff in the bags is of poor quality. More on that another time. I do consider that I am making soil by adding my fermented waste to my indoor bins that contain soil dug up from beds from previous summer as I am continually increasing the amount of soil matter available for planting.

In the fall every year, I put soil from my small greenhouse and cold frames into bins for my winter composting. Every fall, before the soil in our greenhouse and cold frames freezes, we remove soil from the beds into Rubbermaid bins which we bring into the house when we have 5-gallon batches of fermented waste that need to be buried.

We bury the fermented waste in this soil, reconditioning it with the waste, for the next season. This stuff stays in the house all winter� So, yes, initially, years ago, we obtained local soil mostly sand and some bagged soil imported from the south. Since then the amount of soil that we have keeps growing � the only input into our system over the years has been seaweed and kitchen waste.

Well, clearly something happens. If you put scraps in the blender the breakdown is mechanical. Since very little is left of the visible food scraps in the bokashi soil, something must have happend to change its form. But to say that nothing happens is just untrue. On a molecular level, not much happens by blending. Our eyes only see on a macro level, not on a sub-micro level. Anyhow, I empty bokashi bin into compost tumbler It breaks down within days and seems to assist in the breakdown of other materials in compost bin.

Anecdotal evidence only. If you compress bokashi in a 5 gallon bucket, even when you drain it you are left with lbs. It bulks up your existing soil. Also, your bokashi bin is basically full of the pulp and bone that would ruin your blender, and most of what you extract as a liquid would be drained off. Bokashi does not produce these so it does not produce soil. However, once in soil it decomposes and much of its bulk is lost in that process.

Incidentally, I have experimented beyond my arctic home with burying buckets of Garden Plants Home Bargains Queen waste in my front and back yards postage stamp size, in a town house row in Kanata suburbia. The buried waste did not attract any animal visitors.

I have been using bokashi buckets for nearly a year now and I find them to be excellent. I have two buckets to allow extra fermentation time of the first bucket while I fill the second. Once the second is full I dig a trench in the garden, dump the fermented food scraps from the first bucket which yes still look similar to how they looked when I put them in the bucket and cover with soil. The huge benefit that you have missed in your article is that the fermented food scraps break down super fast once they are in the ground, and are completely composted and look just like soil within months.

The bokashi also attract loads of earth worms, the soil is inundated with them where the bokashi was put in the trench. This method is convenient, easy, and super efficient much more so than my traditional compost bins.

Just because it no longer looks like the food does not mean it composted faster. This is a claim some people make, but no one has been able to provide any proof that it is true.

As a simple test, I took raw food scrapes, and put them through the blender. I then mixed it with soil.

Instantly, without any bokashi, I had what looked like composted material. I am new to bokashi and just use regular pail with tight lid. Dug up my 16 x 3 foot raised garden this early spring and buried 6 � 5 gallon pails full of bokashi weeks before I was ready to plant.

I am never going back. My garden is Awesome�my neigbours are commenting and amazed at how lushest and beautiful my veggies are and producing in abundance amounts� I am very satisfied with the outcome and find it much easier and faster then traditional composting. I was just about to buy a bokashi starterkit when I read your article.

I think you have entirely missed the point of Bokashi composting, and yes, it is composting. Its a 3 part process. I have never seen anyone claim, at least anyone with knowledge of the technique, that the process is completed within the bucket and you are left with finished compost.

Also, why would anyone even compost aerobically if they do not have a garden, let alone anaerobically? I have been using the Bokashi method for over a decade, along with vermicomposting and regular aerobic composting. By far, Bokashi has been the most thorough, fastest, and convenient. Again, no one has claimed that you do not have to continue the process after a few weeks in the bucket.

After everything is fermented, including btw meat, bones, dairy, even cat litter, it usually takes about 4 to 5 weeks within a trench or a regular compost pile to finish.

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