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Only remove up to a third of the tree in any one year. The whole process may take up to 3 years to complete, to reduce the height of the tree. I have been researching BYOC and I have to say you have done a great job of putting together this article. I live in Las Vegas and the area is currently my chicken yard that I scatter the excess seed from my wives bird shop in to feed the chickens and grow to till back into the soil.

Thank you for sharing all this knowledge with us, for free. I want to ask you for your permission to let me try to translate your work in my language, Romanian. In our country this domain is barely trying to start and there are some people who charge E for a weekend class. I also think this knowledge should be available for all, for free.

Feel free to contact me on email. Thanks again, Sorin. Nice work. In Minnesota we prune only in winter when the insects and diseases are dormant. Like many permaculture techniques, it is site specific treatment based on local conditions. We prune ruthlessly in winter relying on the bud count for fruit and new growth. Leaf and fruit thinning is all we do in summer. Have you seen the apple wall system? Much like you speak of the trees are inches apart, but pruned to 12 inches for a tall thin and trellised system.

Washington state USA has many huge orchards like this that increase productivity times a standard orchard. I am going to look into my design closely and start incorporating this practice more. I have only done it at my place. Hi there. Thanks for this article. I recently planted 4 bare root, standard sized fruit trees. I cut all the main leaders back to about 60cm. But the peach is only sprouting new growth from one spot. When I got it, it had quite a few little side branches � about mm diameter � all the way around that look like they have already been trimmed back to about 10cm in length.

I left around of these fairly evenly distributed branches below where I lopped the top off. But only one of them has resprouted. Is there anything I should do to encourage more even new growth, or should I just wait and it will sort itself out? Hi Lucy, I would just wait and see what the tree does. If the peach has only sprouted from one point, and this point is very close to the soil level, then it could be the rootstock sprouting before the graft above it most commercially sold fruit trees are grafted.

As long as the graft is alive, it will sort itself out, and the suckers coming up from the rootstock are trimmed off. If it is sprouting well above the soil level but quite low it could be that the wood above the sprout has died off. The tree will regrow in this case given time.

Best to wait and see what happens! I will just relax, then! It has sprouted from the scion wood, near the top where it was cut back to. Should I still prune the new growth back inby half in late summer, do you think? If the branch starts becoming a big long whip, then you might need to cut it, just remember, you are pruning to create the scafold branched, the really big main limbd, so prune it at the point where you want that branch to start branching itself.

Being a new shoot, chances are you might only need a winter prune on it, let the tree build up some leaves and gather energy to put into the roots, only prune if necessary.

Can you tell me the pros and cons of each to help me decide. I do have a very small yard. Thank you! Also, some trees can be dwarfed better than others. The disadvantage with dwarf trees is that they usually cost a lot more, and take about 5 years to get to theor low height. I also find that on the dwarf peaches and nectarines that the nodes on the branches are ridiculously short, so the fruit ends up tighly bunched, which can be remediated by thinning the fruit in the early stages.

The advantage of dwarf trees is that you have to prune them less or not at all. I enjoyed your article. It has encouraged me to take the plunge. I have one question, though. Does planting four trees in one hole as opposed to only one tree increase the yield? If so, by how much approximately? The main benefit is that your cropping season can be extended, or you can have more varieties of fruit from the same space. Love all the info but finding it hard to convert inches to metric.

Stopped using those measurements in ! Could we have both if we must see feet and inches? I try to include both imperial and metric measurements in most of my articles as we have readers worldwide, and this system originates from the US, hence the imperial measurements.

Since you asked, here is the updated text for the pictures with the metric conversions incluuded:. I too am planting in limited space and am having fun making a Double Off-set Peach Hedge. I now had to move to a different part of the yard for my Apples but it is a bit shaded. I have been trying to find an article or ask someone about adding a sugar supplement in the right amount of course to a few of the shaded Apple trees to make up for the decreased photosynthesis.

Does this make sense to anyone? Or any other tricks to either make up for the loss of photosynthesis OR how to increase the photosynthesis efficiency? I would love to here some comments. Also, these are young trees and I live in Zone 6 if that matters. Remember the permaculture approach, every problem has the solution within it, keep your solutions simple and natural! I saw this done is a very narrow inner city backyard where the garden was on the shady side, and the house on the sun facing side.

They installed large plastic so they'[re flexible and safe mirrors along the house wall to reflect the heat and illuminate the garden bed! Any reflective surface can achiebe the same effect. Both of my Fruit Tree Areas have been desodded and wood chipped which I plan to keep free of all vegetation except for the trees.

I know that wood chips do not actually attract termites, however, I play it safe and treat the area anyway. It is inexpensive, non-toxic and widely available. I have heard about some reflective material that was used on Apple Orchards. I was also told to train the trees as to face the sun. And to thin out to only the best looking fruit. Thank you. They return organic matter to the soil and enrich it, so plants grow better.

The point is to keep them away from your house if you have a wooden framed house or wooden stumps holding the house up. Bare ground is an invitation to Nature to fill the empty space � with weeds!

Thank you so much for this wonderful article. What a wealth of information� Perfect for a enthusiastic beginner like me. Really appreciate this!!! In a mixed fruit backyard orchard is there some hierarchy as to what gets planted next to what.

I understand all pears together,all apples together, etc�� But is there a preference for say cherries next to plums or pears next to peaches. I am having a hard time locating any information on this. Help please! With trees what determines where they get planted in backyard orchard culture is their requirements for sunlight throughout the seasons of the year.

There is no hierarchy and no companion planting of one tree next to another for beneficial gains other than citrus next to guavas.

Consider that evergreen fruit trees need hours of sunlight all year round, while deciduous trees only need sun when they have leaves, in spring, summer and part of autumn.

In summer the sun is very high in the sky, nearly directly overhead at midday, fairly high the rest of the time, and can shine over most obstacles. In winter when the sun in lower in the sky at midday, and sitting much lower at all other times of the day, some areas of a garden will be in shade all winter, while some areas will receive sun.

Plant your evergreens where they will receive sun all year round, while your deciduous trees can be planted in areas that may be shaded or partly shaded during the winter period. In planting evergreens and deciduous trees, plant deciduous trees in the foreground closer to the sun north in southern hemisphere, south in northern hemisphere and the evergreens in the background, because the deciduous trees will lose their leaves in winter and allow the low angled winter sun to reach the evergreens.

Other considerations include the purpose of the trees, as in multiple purposes described in the Permaculture design principles, and sought after in good Permaculture design. All fruit trees can produce fruit, but they can serve other purposes too. If you want to screen a west wall from the hot afternoon summer sun, or cover a pergola to create a shaded outdoor area in summer to sit under, you would use a deciduous tree or vine. When the leaves fall, the warmth and light of the winter sun will pass through.

If you wanted to cover and unsightly view, you would use an evergreen because you want the cover provided all year round. Basically, choose the location of the trees based on their sun needs, and if you have variations in the contour and slope of the land, assess where water will be in excess or where it will be very dry, and choose a tree that is suitable for the location.

If the tree is being used for a secondary purpose such as screening or shading, determine the type of tree required that best suits the purpose. With Permaculture, the most important thing to consider in a design is the relationship of each element object in a design to all the others around it.

I too would like to know what fruit trees gain benefits being planted next to another but different Species fruit tree? I tried several university sources and was directed to much good information about mixed fruit backyard orchards��but sadly none produced the exact info I was looking for��.

Here is my take. We know most Apples and Pears need pollinators which are of a different variety so try to block all Apples and block all Pears.

Hi Bob, if I understand your question correctly this time, the answer is that the benefit of planting trees together is not how you understand it to be. Trees benefit from companion plants, usually herbs and flowers which increase resistance to disease and pests, and also stimulate growth and vigour of the tree. It has been documented that many plants exude substances from their roots, leaves and flowers to produce these effects. They also attract pollinators and beneficial insect predators, which help the nearby trees too.

Trees benefit each other when planted together because they create beneficial microclimates which also assist other plants below them, protecting them from harsh conditions. It is said that pomegranates, even though self-fertile, produce more fruit if there is an different variety of pomegranate nearby. This is the case with partially self-fertile fruit trees. Vary the conditions as insurance should the soil go bad in one area, or if weather conditions impact one area of the garden more than another.

When you plant a tree and spread roots, point the largest or the preponderance of roots in the direction that the prevailing wind comes from. They said it made for better wind tolerance by the tree ie. Good luck with your planting. Excellent point about the pest problem. Another good point about Apple pollination. Also, even wind-pollinated trees have to have a degree of certainty of traveling to another compatible tree.

I guarantee a tree minimally close to another compatible tree will be hundreds of times more likely to get pollinated than a tree even a block away not less one mile. I understand the companion planning of herbs flowers and veggies. I was looking for a connection of tree variety to tree variety that would benefit each of the adjoining trees. In your first reply you mentioned tropical type fruit citrus as the only case of this and I will have to agree as I have been unable to find any regarding apples, pears, peach, cherry.

I meant it when I said your reply helped�. I would like to provide shade and protection from auto traffic from a near by road. Would I be better of with trees spaced feet apart per traditional orchards or plant more trees closer together? If so,how close can I plant to get a hedge effect and still have a high yield? I live in southern utah usa where the summers are hot and we have a mild freeze in the winter.

Hi, Can you use this multi planting method for citrus? I really like the idea of having 4 different fruits in the space of one normal tree. Thanks Jacq. Should I prune the front 2 shorter than the rear 2? So the rear ones get enough sun, or will they get enough anyway? Cheers Jacq. Considering that evergreen trees need a minimum of hours of sun all year round, I would only plant two trees side-by-side, both facing the sun.

With four, the trees in the foreground will shade out the trees in the background! When late autumn and winter comes and the sun is low in the sky, deciduous trees have lost all their leaves and are dormant, so there is risk of shading each other out.

Thanks again, Jacq. Hi again, Would I be better putting the 4 citrus at the back with the 4 stone fruit in front of them? Thanks again and again Jacq. Hi Jacq, if you are placing a row of trees along a north facing fence facing the midday sun, which is south for northern hemisphere readers , I would put the row of evergreen trees along the wall or fence, then put the deciduous trees as a row in front of them, preferably in a staggered formation, that is, line up the deciduous trees with the gaps between the evergreens.

This is intriguing. How would you compare this method of planting multiple varieties of say apple trees in one hole to buying a multi-variety grafted tree where multiple varieties of say apples are grafted to one semi-dwarf rootstock?

Thanks for such an informative article! The many-trees-in-one-hole technique and multi-graft trees are two different and equally viable solutions to the same problem, squeezing more tree varieties in a small space. There are pros and cons with each approach. With multigrafts, you have to prune the more vigorous varieties back to stop them overtaking the other variety, and since you are on a single rootstock there is the risk that if the limb breaks from the tree, you could lose that variety.

There is the issue of resilience, if you lose one rootstock you lose two trees. Planting many trees to a hole creates a single canopy with two root systems, but you still have to prune back the more vigorous variety to keep the canopy of the tree balanced as you do with muti-grafts, but not to the same extent.

There is more training involved with this technique, and it probably takes a bit more skill to prune the shape in the early formative stages as the trees are growing. In my garden, I have a few multi-graft trees, most of my fruit trees planted fairly close together, from 1. If you have a larger square area that can accommodate one larger canopy tree, then you can plant in the many-to-one-hole fashion.

Even with multi-graft trees on a semi-dwarfing rootstock, you would still use the pruning techniques of backyard orchard culture to maintain a small size.

Great article thank you. I just want to add I agree with close planting which I thankfully started 15yrs ago in my small backyard 12x15m. I have 3 varieties of apples that fruit over 7 months , dwarf peach that fruits abundantly , another variety peach, Japanese blood plum , mandarin ,orange ,lemon 2 cherry trees , nectarine promegranate ,persimmon, guava ,blueberry x2 plants and still need to plant apricot and a pear which I will plant soon.

It is so rewarding to eat off your own tree nothing beats the taste!!! Do you have any pictures of your setup with citrus? Would they still work good spaced about 80cm apart?

Backyard Orchard Culture is a pruning technique for deciduous trees. Citrus grow in a completely different way being heavy feeders and evergreens. I plant my citrus 1. Your eureka tree can be kept at that height and width with a little pruning.

Angelo thanks for your reply you have inspired me to plant more!! You have an extraordinary amount of fruit trees in your garden! Well definitely will plant in my front yard as well great idea!! Thank you for your informative site I will keep reading it! Is it possible to do pomegranate plantation with this dense method in middle size of farm 25 acres. I did not know that I had to cut down the newly planted trees-apple, plum,peach,pear. Should I cut down the trees and start over or work hard at pruning trees for an open canopy shape.

They bore some fruit this summer. The Metheley plum and moon glow pear have the tallest truck of 50 inches in height. I want them to be under feet tall. Is there any help for me and my trees. If your trees have proper structure, i. You can lower a canopy bit by bit, but you really cant lower scaffold branches easily.

In spring new growth appears and you can then select some of the new growth and retrain as a lower scaffold, but that will take three years to get the shape again! Some fruit trees that can be pollarded include the following species � Malus apple Backyard Design Companies Near Me For Sale , Prunus plums, peaches, nectarines, cherries, etc. Depends what the demand is in the market for fruit trees at large retail chains�. My trees are older and wanted to know if they will be okay having a taller truck 50 inches or should I cut the trunk down some.

My mind went immediately to deforestation not trimming or pruning. Hi Angelo, I really enjoy your website and want to thank you for publishing such a valuable resource!

Fantastic thanks! Thanks Angelo your site is a fantastic resource and your work is super inspirational! Can I ask what you do to prevent birds from eating all your fruits? I have several fruit and nut trees which are bearing but the cockies eat them before they are even close to maturing. I rarely ever have to use bird-netting, but if I do I use the woven bird net which is really hard to cut, unlike the moulded netting which can be cut through easily.

My preference is for the highly visible white netting, which deters parrots because they can see from a distance that the tree is covered, and stops birds accidentally getting tangled, which can happen with the thin, black, moulded bird netting. All your advice is perfectly consistent with my observed experience and why I wanted to ask your opinion. The mature pear tree which which we inherited is overgrown and gets attacked first unlike the smaller younger pruned trees.

We netted it 3 days ago with the black moulded netting and already 2 birds tangled that I had to free so was about to give up on nets! Thanks I will try some white woven net. Do you have a preferred hole size? Search Project Type.

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